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These cookies do not store any personal information. Non-necessary Non-necessary. Any cookies that may not be particularly necessary for the website to function and is used specifically to collect user personal data via analytics, ads, other embedded contents are termed as non-necessary cookies. It is mandatory to procure user consent prior to running these cookies on your website. I did have a handy plate that I could now use as a drill guide, as it's not easy holding the frames and marking the holes at the same time.
I didn't have short enough screws so I cut down a load of screws to fit. With the holes marked with pencil using the drill guide I centre punched these so that the drill would not wander all over place. Once drilled with a pilot drill I checked the alignment of the holes and opened them up to the correct size for the screws, just tilting the drill where needed to get the holes squared up.
This is not a bodge but a well known engineering trick. I fitted the frame with the wood screws and tried them out. I thought they looked really crap, as the heads of the screws weren't the right shape to support the frames hinge so when moving the frames they had no support and just flapped about.
I needed to come up with a better solution otherwise I'd be fitting the old non opening glass back in. A sceptic would suggest wood screws have no place on a VW though After a few days away from the garage I came up with the idea of using Riv nuts.
Secondly, do people still use a grinder? I was dead against that because of the sparks and heat generation. I was looking more towards a nibbler? T6 Legend.
Dean VanDoc. I live in Scotland so dean isn't really an option. I'll be fitting them myself. I used kiravans on my van. Apart from the issue on the rear door glass that was a mismatch and had to be removed I have no complaints and would def recommend them.
In my opinion they look best and I haven't had issues with previous Ines fitted either. They are a bit more complex to install but if your confident with tools this shouldn't be an issue. I would definitely not use a grinder for the job, or for any for that matter! I used a jigsaw on the long straight sections and the a pneumatic respricating saw for the corners and trimming. You do need to cut the double skin but I have all measurements if your going this route.
Also I fitted a U rubber in the inner skin then black silicone between that and the glass which gave it a really smart and good finish, you will need to trim the top and bottom sliding rail covers but that's no big issues either.
Even with the jigsaw and pneumatic saw remove door seals and tape off all the van as the hit metal parts will melt into the rubbers and turn rusty I have seen the previously on a friends van.
Order the trim for rear of window also as it looks good and closes the gap at the rear where window is bonded. Any more info needed just give a shout Best if luck and keep a steady hand Regards Sean.
Do you have any pictures Sean. I will be fitting a slider behind the drivers seat and the rest fixed. Sounds a bit of extra work but the look is far better I think. I am looking to buy a nibbler as I don't want grinding sparks everywhere. The latter has just posted a detailed description of how he cut his panels, but I'm sorry that I can't post a link.
The process I used is as follows - Drill through from the inside of the van to the outside every time there is a change of direction using the inner skin as a guide i. Use window suckers on the metal work so that when you make the final cut the panel doesnt fall and damage your van. At the curved corners cut a straight line diagonally between the drill holes. On some of the windows you have to cut through the inner skin where the stiffener is but the jigsaw goes through it fine.
Using hand snips trim the metal all around on any bits that are higher than the inner skin. Also use the hand snips to cut the curves at each corner Using a retractible knife the ones that you can snap the blades off with cut into the rubber bead all around between the two skins getting the knife between the bead and the metal and remove all the beading Knock on the U prifile edge trim using a rubber mallet - Some people put sikaflex between the skins at this point.
I dint it on the first window but didnt bother with the rest as the U profile holds the skins together without it Once the profile is on prime around the outer edge of the trim using the dinitrol primer. Also prime the glass with the activator.
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