If not, the belt or belt tensioner may be broken. To repair, see the chapter about your brand. You may see similar symptoms if the motor has gone bad, except that you probably will not hear the motor turning. If the motor is locked, you may hear it buzzing.
See section d about motors. This can be caused by poor airflow in all dryers, but especially in gas dryers. This can also be caused by a problem with the air heating system within the dryer. See section c about thermostats and temperature control systems, section a about gas burners, or section f and the chapter about your brand for information about electric heating elements.
Most likely the door switch needs replacement. See the chapter on your machine to open the cabinet to get to the door switch. This complaint is sometimes caused by thermostat problems, see section c.
A vast majority of these complaints stem from drum supports that have worn out. It usually sounds like a loud, low-pitched rumbling sound that slowly gets worse over a period of several months or even years. This is a very common complaint in Whirlpool or Kenmore brand dryers about 7 to 15 years old. See the chapter about your brand for specifics about replacing the drum support rollers.
In some models, notably GE, if a belt breaks, the belt tensioner will touch the drive motor shaft and a loud grinding or clattering noise will result. Replace the belt as described in the chapter about your brand. You may get a rumbling noise if a belt tensioner pulley seizes up or the tensioner spring breaks.
A regular clack-clack sound as the dryer drum is turning may be coins stuck inside the removable plastic dryer vanes. This can happen in Whirlpool or Kenmore dryers, as well as some other brands, though it is infrequent. To solve the problem, open the top of ther dryer as described in the Whirlpool section, then remove the plastic vane on the inside of the dryer drum by removing the screws on the outside of the dryer drum that hold it in place.
In some models, notably Maytag and Frigidaire machines, things can get by the lint screen like pencils and pens and get stuck in the blower wheel. Again, it's a loud grinding sound, as if you were sticking something into a moving blower fan. See the section about your brand for details about how to get to the blower in your machine. To access the burner assembly, open the gas burner inspection door. Unless specified otherwise in the section about your dryer brand, this door is found on the lower left or right front of the dryer cabinet.
Gas burners can generally be divided into two broad categories; pilot and pilotless ignition. Pilot ignition models have not been manufactured in a number of years, and thus tend to be older units, but there are still a significant number of them in operation. The main components of the system see Figure G-2 and G-2a are the gas valve, venturi and burner chamber, and gas safety solenoids in all models, the flame sensor and the ignitor in pilotless models, or the pilot orifice and sensor in pilot models.
A normally operating gas burner system will have a clean, mostly blue flame perhaps occasionally streaked with just a little tinge of orange that cycles on and off every couple of minutes. When the flame is off and starts to cycle on, you will hear a loud click.
In a pilot system, the gas valve will open and the flame will kick on at this time. In a pilotless system, the ignitor will heat up and glow brightly for about seconds. The flame sensor senses the heat from the ignitor. If it is glowing, you will hear another click, the gas valve will open and the flame will kick on. This is a safety feature; if you don't have ignition, you certainly don't want to open the gas valve and dump gas into the dryer cabinet.
When the air in the dryer drum reaches the chosen temperature as sensed by the thermostats the gas valve will close and the flame will shut off.
Nine times out of ten, if the ignitor is not glowing, it is burnt out. Unplug the dryer and remove the burner assembly as shown in figure G Usually you will see a white or yellowish burned area and a break in the ignitor.
If so, replace the ignitor. If you can't see an obvious break, test the ignitor for continuity as described in section e. If the ignitor is not defective, you need to isolate whether the problem is in the control thermostat area, or at the burner itself. The general idea is that if you have volts getting to the burner assembly, then the thermostats are OK, and something in the burner assembly is bad. If you don't have volts at the burner, then a thermostat or some other control is bad.
Set your dryer timer to the "on" position, high heat, and plug in the dryer. If your VOM reads volts, something in the burner assembly is bad. If the burner isn't getting voltage, the problem is in one of the components of the heating control system: a thermostat, timer or temperature control switch, or motor centrifugal switch.
If you trace it to the burner assembly, and you've already eliminated the ignitor as the problem, either the flame sensor or the gas valve solenoid coil s are bad. Unplug the dryer, disconnect the flame sensor and test it for continuity. If you have no continuity, the flame sensor is bad. If you have continuity, the coils are bad. Bring the burner assembly to your parts dealer to make sure you get the right coil assembly, and don't forget to bring the model number of the machine.
Either the flame sensor is not working properly or the safety solenoid coils are not opening the gas valve. If the ignitor doesn't stop glowing, the flame sensor is bad. If the ignitor cycles on and off, the gas solenoid coil s are bad.
Usually this problem can be traced to airflow problems, especially if the flame is very orangey-colored while it is on rather than blue. The solution is to clean out your lint screen or dryer exhaust. It is an especially common problem in installations where the dryer exhaust runs a long way before venting to the outside.
Repair as described in section This may also be caused by a defective flame sensor. Occasionally this problem can be caused by a bad thermostat. Test as described in section c. If there is no pilot, it closes off the gas to both the pilot and the main gas valve. This prevents accidental buildup of gas in the dryer cabinet. The sensor is simply a bulb, like a thermometer bulb, with a liquid inside that expands when the pilot flame heats it.
The liquid pushes against a metal diaphragm that holds the spring-loaded gas valve open. If the pilot goes out, the liquid cools and the diaphragm lets the spring close the gas valve. In order to light the pilot, you must manually hold the valve open for a minute or so, until the sensor heats up enough to hold the valve open. The gas valve solenoid coil is not opening the main gas valve. Either the gas valve solenoid coil is defective, or the burner is not getting the signal to start burning from the heating control system.
Before you start, I want to impress upon you something really important. In electric dryers, you're usually dealing with volt circuits. I've been hit with volts now and then. Anyone who works with electrical equipment has at one time or another. It's unpleasant, but unless exposure is more than a second or so, the only harm it usually does is to tick you off pretty good.
If you have a heart condition, epilepsy, or other potentially serious health conditions, well It's not worth dying for. Sometimes you need to read a wiring diagram, to make sure you are not forgetting to check something.
Sometimes you just need to find out what color wire to look for to test a component. If you already know how to read a wiring diagram, you can skip this section. If you're one of those folks who's a bit timid around electricity, all I can say is read on, and don't be too nervous. It will come to you. You learned how to use a VOM in Chapter 1, right?
Each component should be labelled clearly on your diagram. Look at figure G The symbols used to represent each component are pretty universal; for example, two different symbols for thermostats are shown, but both have a little square line in them, so you know they're thermostats.
Notice that in some parts of the diagram, the lines are thicker than in other parts. The wiring and switches that are shown as thick lines are inside of the timer. Also note that since heaters and ignitors are both a type of resistor, they may be shown with the resistor symbol a zig-zag line or they may have their own square symbol, but they should be clearly marked.
The small circles all over the diagram are terminals. These are places where you can disconnect the wire from the component for testing purposes. If you see dotted or shaded lines around a group of wires, this is a switch assembly; for example, a temperature or cycle switch assembly. It may also be the timer, but whatever it is, it should be clearly marked on the diagram. Any wiring enclosed by a shaded or dotted box is internal to a switch assembly and must be tested as described in sections a and b.
Switches may be numbered or lettered. Those markings can often be found cast or stamped into the switch. To test a switch with a certain marking, mark and disconnect all the wires from your timer. Connect your ohmmeter to the two terminal leads of the switch you want to test. For example, in figure G-6, if you want to test the hi-temp selector switch, connect one lead to the M and one to the H terminal. Then flick the switch back and forth. It should close and open. If it does, you know that contact inside the switch is good.
Remember that for something to be energized, it must make a complete electrical circuit. This includes not only the component that you suspect, but all switches leading to it. In Figure G-6 a , which shows a typical electric dryer, L1, L2, and N are the main power leads; they go directly to your wall plug.
Between L1 and N, you will see volts. Between L2 and N, you will also see volts. But between L1 and L2, you will see volts. In gas dryers, L1 and L2 will be volt leads. Sometimes they will be labelled L1 and N, but they are still volt leads. Let's say you need to check out why the heater is not working.
Since a burnt out heater element is the most likely cause of this symptom, first test the heater for continuity.
If you have good continuity, something else in the circuit that feeds the heater must be defective. Following the gray-shaded circuit in figure G-6 a , note that the electricity flows from L1 to L2, so this is a volt circuit.
From L1 the electricity flows to the Y-DB switch. This switch is located inside of the timer you know this because it is drawn with thick lines and it must be closed. The power then goes through the wire to the temperature selector switch.
In this example, we have set the temperature on "low. Therefore, both thermostats must be closed and show good continuity. The electricity then flows through the high limit thermostat, so it too must be closed and show good continuity. The electricity flows through the heater, which we have already tested and we know is good.
Then the electricity flows through the centrifugal switch, which must be closed, before going back out the main power cord L2. To test for the break in the circuit, simply isolate each part of the system remove the wires from the terminals and test for continuity.
For example, to test the thermostats in our example, pull the wires off each thermostat and test continuity across the thermostat terminals as described in section c.
The Y-DB switch is shown in bold lines, so it is inside the timer. For now, let's ignore this switch. Remember; the timer is the last thing you should check; see section b. That leaves the centrifugal switch, which is only closed when the motor is running. However, if you can identify the proper leads, you can use your alligator jumpers to jump across them.
If you do this and the heater kicks on when you turn on the timer, you know the switch is bad. If NONE of the other components appear to be defective, test the timer as described in section b. To check for a wire break, you would pull each end of a wire off the component and test for continuity through the wire. You may need to use jumpers to extend or even bypass the wire; for example, if one end of the wire is in the control console and the other end in underneath the machine.
If there is no continuity, there is a break in the wire! It will then be up to you to figure out exactly where that break is; there is no magic way. If you have a broken wire, look along the length of the wire for pinching or chafing. If there is a place where the wires move , check there first. Even if the insulation is O. Testing switches and solenoids is pretty straightforward.
Take all wires off the component and test resistance across it. Solenoids should show SOME resistance, but continuity should be good. If a solenoid shows no continuity, there's a break somewhere in the windings. If it shows no resistance, it's shorted. The timer is the brain of the dryer. It controls everything in the cycle. In addition to telling the motor when to run, it may also activate the heating circuit or heating control circuits, humidity-sensing circuits, etc.
Solid state timers are difficult and expensive to diagnose. If you suspect a timer problem in a solid-state system, you can try replacing it, but remember that it's expensive and non-returnable being an electrical part.
If you have one of these units that's defective, you can check into the cost of replacing it, but it's been my experience that you usually will end up just replacing the whole dryer or calling a technician. If you do call a technician, make sure you ask up front whether they work on solid-state controls. Most timers are nothing more than a motor that drives a set of cams which open and close switches.
Yet it is one of the most expensive parts in your dryer, so don't be too quick to diagnose it as the problem. And don't forget that timers are electrical parts, which are usually non-returnable. If you buy one, and it turns out not to be the problem, you've just wasted the money. In a wiring diagram, the wiring and switches that are inside the timer will usually be drawn with dark lines.
If the timer is not advancing only in the automatic or humidity control cycle, i. If the timer is not advancing in all cycles, well, that's pretty obvious. Replace the timer or timer drive motor, or have it rebuilt as described below. Timers can be difficult to diagnose. The easiest way is to go through everything else in the malfunctioning system. If none of the other components are bad, then it may be the timer. Remember that a timer is simply a set of on-off switches. The switches are turned off and on by a cam, which is driven by the timer motor.
Timer wires are color-coded or number-coded. Let's say you've got a motor starting problem. Following the shaded circuit in figure G-7, you test the door switch, push-to-start switch and centrifugal switch.
They all test ok. So you think you've traced the problem to your timer. So long static. Steam boost turns your dryer into much more than a tool for removing moisture from loads.
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Gas Dryers DR5. Features Reviews Specifications Manuals Support. Steam Boost Goodbye, wrinkles. Steam Refresh When you need to get out the door fast and looking smelling good, a steam refresh is just the ticket. Sanitize for Peace of Mind Speed Queen dryers do more than just dry. Over-dry Protection Technology Over-drying your favorite clothes and linens wears them out faster.
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